Stock setup is to "flat"
Dial in 19mm offset camber: I Use a large steel square on the shop floor and dial in 19mm offset top rim lip relative to the bottom rim lip this is around 3.5 - 4 degrees. The heims will be just about full in, maybe one - 1 1/2 turns of thread still showing. You need to check rear tire pressure or use a set of bare rims on the back and check your shop floor is relatively flat.
I move forward the stub axle inclination - caster - by one full turn out of the rear heim on the top a arms this pushes the top of the stub axle forward which reduces castor - speeds up the steering.
Toe in: get someone to stand on the front end and get the tie rod horizontal, set toe to zero to maybe 3 - 5mm toe in at this point, no more.
You'll see a big difference, stock they push / under steer.
getting the stock ride height down with a set off Rons shocks / springs also helps.
dial away !!
Moving the top a-arm forward is actually decreasing caster and putting the top of the wheel in is increasing negative camber.Heres what I did with my limited tools. LOL I need to get a straight edge and or camber tool.
So i moved the spacers on either end of the of the heim joints from one on each side to both in the back. Moving the top a arm forward..Therefore adding caster, right?
Then I took and screwed the heim joints all 1 1/2 turns in. Adding camber. How much unsure. Looks like just a little.
Then I took a measurement from rear of wheels and the front of wheels and set it where its 1/4inch closer in the front. Therefore adding toe in right??
Tell me if this sounds some what close? Thanks driver
You did that on the front heim only and pulled the rear one out? Or did you leave the rear alone?Better for sure !!
You'll need more turns in on the heim, I think I went in three turns or there abouts, basically no thread showing !
Not keen on moving the heim spacers but that has the desired effect !
you set the toe with the front end dropped down so the tie rods where horizontal right ? 1/4" is plenty try 1/8"
I take back this set-up, While it felt great at wide open National tracks, on local and practice tracks the steering was way too heavy. I will be decreasing castor and retesting.I fell like mine turns too easily, and was thinking of adding caster (moving the top ball joint rearward in relation to the lower) and adding a little more negative camber. Then reset toe of course.
I take back this set-up, While it felt great at wide open National tracks, on local and practice tracks the steering was way too heavy. I will be decreasing castor and retesting.
It would be nice to know exactly where professional suspension tuners set up different bikes. I know Walsh has generic settings available for everyone and rider preference may have alot to do with it, but different models should definately have different setting to compensate for handling characteristics and different frame geometry/ weight bias.Noleen set my whole front end up