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Discussion Starter #1
I gave the quad a service today, it all went as planned but when i tried to screw in the rear most oil drain plug back into the block it has some how broken off some of the thread inside the block. when i managed to get the bolt back out there were thin pieces of metal stuck in the thread of the bolt.

The bolt doesnt look stripped which has got me wondering if the case maybe weak or something

I wasnt rough when i installed it, the bolt had oil for lube on it so im a little unhappy with the whole outcome. But.. does anyone know if it is safe to run a helicoil up in there for a new thread, attempt to re-tap it or bite the bullet and blow $1600 AU on a complete new crank case..

any suggestion would be great
 

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The plug is an M12 x 1.5 pitch.
I have heli coiled sump plugs before with no problems.
When you drill and tap it, don't go right through into the crank case. Leave a small lip on the inside for the helicoil to bottom out on.
Use a vaccum to suck the swarf while you are drilling and tapping it.
Keep the oil you drained out and put it back in after you have put the helicoil in.
Run the engine just untill it gets warm to heat the oil and them re drain the oil to drop anything that may have gotten inside.

Where abouts are you?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im in Karratha, north west WA..

I have ordered a new plug just to take that out of the equation, but that sounds great if it can be coiled. So provided most of the swarf and filing come out, just run her up and dump the oil a time or two to get out the remaining metal.. sounds great.

Cheers for the help, hopefully will get around to it tomora or the next day so i will keep ya posted.
 

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You're a bit far away to give a hand.
Just try and do it with the quad on its feet so anything the vaccum misses will drop out anyway.
All's good.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cheers for the info anyways.

Yeah, a little far away but you get that.

Also mate, i have seen your bike in the atv action mag.

Did you look into the big bore kit and cams or you happy with it big girl for now?

I have an itch to put an 8/06 cam in it to give her a bit more legs up top, you know of anyone in oz who has played around with this kinda stuff?

Cheers again
 

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Going to sit on it as is for a while. Did some flat track a couple of weeks ago and pulled 15/37 gearing on an oil track with no trouble at all. Can't ask for more than that.
Running MX on 18" rears with 14/37 is plenty as well.

Have ridden Gavins bike with the 540 kit on it. That thing's got some torque. I think it would be a bit too draining on the body after a full MX race.

Have a chat to Kiwi Craig on the cams. He has used them and is full of good info.
I'm yet to find anyone in Oz that has even herd of them. I had to give my local dealer a part number before he could work out what I was talking about with the cam.
 

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My drain plug did the same thing. The shop got the drain bolt out. Them I had a timesert put in. I was looking at my 07 Ktm 450 exc. The drain plug is at a different angle. So I'm thinking KTM redesigned the left case and it might be a flaw. I've changed the oil on my exc about 15 times. And never have had a problem. My 2nd oil change on the 450xc. This happens. Anyways, have a timesert put in. That is the best solution for a stripped drain plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, i just did the install of the helicoil into the stripped sump hole, it worked a treat.

Cheers to Lost Down Under for your advice/help, it is greatly appreciated mate.

Now that the quad can hold its oil it is time to do some riding.

Cheers again lads.
 

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This just happened to me last night. Sometimes I service the bike, sometimes I take it to a dealer. Sh!t like this is why I usually take it to dealers, because I'm not a fkn mechanic. But I found oily dirt caked onto the top of my skid plate, so I believe this was leaking from the last change which was done by a dealer. So they probably fkd me. Neat.
 

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i did an oil change i found the allen to be metric if you use a new metric allen you should have no issues removing it i do wonder though is it necessary to remove all these dang bolts and plugs each time for oil change i think i counted 7 according to the manual thats kinda crazy IMO
 

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Wen you say 7 I assume you mean 2 on each filter (=4) then 2 oil screens and 1 drain plug. In that case yes if you want to do a full oil change and screen inspection they all need done. I do oil drain plug first then do the 2 filter and upper screen while oil is draining then do lower screen last. Gives you something to do to get as much of the oil out as possible. Also get engine nice and hot and jack up front end slightly.
 

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yeah im talking aout he whole shebang i wouldnt do it any other way that way you get the cleanest possible oil change i even sometimes will run a quart of mobil one through to get as much contamination out as possible maybe im too anal but oil is your bikes blood and it really is that important i promise guys

my dad was sold a 2004 Hummer H2 basically a Chevy tahoe the dealer is a cloase personal friend of the family and he told him dont buy it hummer is junk buy something else you wont get 100k miles out of it
today 2012 my father is still driving the shit out of that hummer he has over 450k miles on it still runs great never hand any engine work done on it bone stock but hes even more anal than me on oil changes he will change oil warm up engine then change that oil to get cleanest possible he use magnets and anything he can to save that motor oh and guess what he runs LUCAS in every change and so do i highly reccomended

Lucas just came out with a motorcycle version too
 
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