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hi all having problems with heat on engine of ktm, radiators full clean and working properly same as thermo fan i looked at the oil and at one stage it smelt burnt and was almost boiling. i want to know if im better going down the road of an oil cooler or trying to modify the raditor system

all suggestions welcome
 

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hi all having problems with heat on engine of ktm, radiators full clean and working properly same as thermo fan i looked at the oil and at one stage it smelt burnt and was almost boiling. i want to know if im better going down the road of an oil cooler or trying to modify the raditor system

all suggestions welcome
Bleed the air from your radiator/cooling system as per KTM Owners Manual Page 69 & 70 with the front of your Quad raised and by opening the bleeder on top of the cylinder head...if your water pump is air locked or cavitating it will not move the fluid to the rad for cooling...I think we will not be able to trust the Dealers on all the small things like this for a couple of years anyway....

Is your fan on when it is running hot? or is it off? you could have a faulty Thermoswitch on your rad...they are cheap and you can get at the auto parts store just take the one you have and they will order for you...here is a few lower temp that we might could get to work for the Katoom...
http://www.techtonicstuning.com/showpart.asp?partnum=121.114
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

Run a larger jet or raise your needle and richen your fuel/air mixture

I am waiting on PWR to make a larger Radiator...Been looking at Honda 400EX Oil Coolers (Cheap and Easy to get)...also I think Protech makes larger Impellers for LTZ Water Pumps and I am waiting on that too...

Finned Inline Cooler:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...52BSI%26otn%3D4

Pull the Thermoswitch (Its on the side of the rad) that cycles the fan on/off for cooling and I am sure you can find one with a different a lower temperature IE the stock one on my LTZ is 180°-off to 190°-on I bought one that switches the fan on at 185° and off at 176° - fan runs more, but cooling is important for Hp while racing (These are approx values I can't remember the exact numbers)...they are different colored switches I took a green out and replaced with a purple so I know there is different designations - UPDATE according to Owners manual the Katoom already has this switch I will look for something a few degrees lower hopefully....
Radiator Additives:

These are all the same products below (Surfactants we call them soap, but there are many different types and if you compare the charts on all of them they are the same)) A few cap fulls of this will help scavenge the heat away from your cylinder...antifreeze sucks for cooling all's antifreeze does is raise the boiling point of water and keep your engine from freezing...Straight Water is better than ALL antifreezes for cooling...A surfactant with water is better than straight water, read up below and you will see on the chart how much of a difference they make...don't put too much only a few capfuls into straight water or reduce antifreeze to only 33% (Use Engine Ice or Silkolene ProCool) and add Water Wetter thats what I do...I run Silkolene Procool with Water Wetter...I run it in my Freightliner also and the temp is 15° cooler running down the road now than it was from the factory...if you want a HOT engine run Evans Coolant or regular antifreeze it is thick hard to circulate and will run hotter!!!!

Only use Distilled or Deionized water in your rad...Deionized is better

Water Wetter:
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf
Royal Purple: Purple Ice
http://www.royalpurple.com/radiator-additive.html
Extensive testing confirms Purple Ice reduces coolant temperatures better than similar products. For example, the average operating temperature of a 350 c.i.d. V8 engine (equipped with 160° thermostat) when dyno-tested with different coolants are:



A.Standard mix of water and glycol (antifreeze)228°FB.50 / 50 water / glycol mix with Purple Ice added222°FC.Straight water (no corrosion protection)220°FD.Water with Purple Ice added200°F
 

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After some more extensive searching I found that Polaris Predator came with a 185° fan on and 150° fan off Thermal Switch...this will be helpful to Big Bore and Big Build Guys I think...
Polaris 4010808 Thermal Sensor you can purchase at any PoPo Dealer or online...don't know about the fit? Anybody have a Polaris Predator 500 or Outlaw 500?...you could try it for us to see if it will fit the Katoom...
Polaris 4010808 Thermal Sensor
Year Product Model Assembly
2007 ATV PREDATOR 500/LE COOLING - A07GJ50AA/AB/AC
2007 ATV OUTLAW 500 COOLING - A07GP50AA/AB
2006 ATV PREDATOR 500 COOLING - A06GJ50AA/AB/AC
2006 ATV OUTLAW 500 COOLING - A06GP50AA
2005 ATV A05GJ50AA PREDATOR 500 [ COOLING - A05GJ50AA/AB/AC
2004 ATV A04GJ50AA PREDATOR COOLING - A04GJ50AA/AB/AC/AD
2003 ATV PREDATOR COOLING - A03GJ50AA/AB
 

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Topic is a bit old but I was wondering if anyone has tried this Purple Ice yet? seems to be pretty good stuff. Just wondering if it would run too cool. Seems like hotter months it would be best to go with no ati-freeze and 50/50 water/p ice, winter if it freezes ati-freeze and water. If its that cold out then heat shouldn't be problem. Anyway if your using it lets hear what ya think.
-Voodoo
 

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i talked to my engine builder who also races a factory Polaris Outlaw, he said not to run too much oil. If you do, it builds up too much heat. he said you should just be able to see the oil in the sight glass when the engine is cold.
 

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Topic is a bit old but I was wondering if anyone has tried this Purple Ice yet? seems to be pretty good stuff. Just wondering if it would run too cool. Seems like hotter months it would be best to go with no ati-freeze and 50/50 water/p ice, winter if it freezes ati-freeze and water. If its that cold out then heat shouldn't be problem. Anyway if your using it lets hear what ya think.
-Voodoo
Water will boil quickly is one disadvantage to running straight water and also 25-33% coolant will give some lubrication to the cooling system...then a few capfuls of Purple Ice or Redline Water Wetter...this would give you much better cooling and still maintain your system...unless you drag race only of course then 100% water with Purple Ice or Water Wetter would be sufficient


i talked to my engine builder who also races a factory Polaris Outlaw, he said not to run too much oil. If you do, it builds up too much heat. he said you should just be able to see the oil in the sight glass when the engine is cold.
Right on Patrick...this happens to a lot of equipment not just engines...I.E. Gear Boxes will run too hot with too much oil, tranny's, Rear Ends, etc...your Mechanic has been around...I run mine on my 470 to where it just touches the dipstick (which is a little low), I noticed when racing it was half way up the stick when hot!!!
 

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i only use cyclelogic's engine ice. I was turned on to it by Cliff Larkosh @ MaxPower to use in my YFZ523. Ever since then I have used it. Matter of fact I tested it against the Royal Purple: Purple Ice, which is what i used before. My YFZ523 ran on average 12 degrees cooler and in the middle of the texas summer it was closer to 17 degrees cooler with the engine ice versus the purple ice.

http://www.engineice.cc/

I also bought a billet temp guage and finned inline cooler to use. Jay Bedwell (eBay: c-40rider) makes a top quality setup that i highly recommend. it come with a inline temp guage and inline billet cooler. i bet that i check the temp no less than 10 times per hour i ride. heat is the number killer to any engine and i would rather be safe than sorry...

i also bought a billet impeller, it should be here this week. from everything i have heard it works pretty good.
 

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i only use cyclelogic's engine ice. I was turned on to it by Cliff Larkosh @ MaxPower to use in my YFZ523. Ever since then I have used it. Matter of fact I tested it against the Royal Purple: Purple Ice, which is what i used before. My YFZ523 ran on average 12 degrees cooler and in the middle of the texas summer it was closer to 17 degrees cooler with the engine ice versus the purple ice.

http://www.engineice.cc/

I also bought a billet temp guage and finned inline cooler to use. Jay Bedwell (eBay: c-40rider) makes a top quality setup that i highly recommend. it come with a inline temp guage and inline billet cooler. i bet that i check the temp no less than 10 times per hour i ride. heat is the number killer to any engine and i would rather be safe than sorry...

i also bought a billet impeller, it should be here this week. from everything i have heard it works pretty good.
Yeah Bronson my brother uses engine ice in his 470...I didn't like the idea of having to change it every year...I have been using Silkolene ProCool with good success also...
 

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i only use cyclelogic's engine ice. I was turned on to it by Cliff Larkosh @ MaxPower to use in my YFZ523. Ever since then I have used it. Matter of fact I tested it against the Royal Purple: Purple Ice, which is what i used before. My YFZ523 ran on average 12 degrees cooler and in the middle of the texas summer it was closer to 17 degrees cooler with the engine ice versus the purple ice.

http://www.engineice.cc/

I also bought a billet temp guage and finned inline cooler to use. Jay Bedwell (eBay: c-40rider) makes a top quality setup that i highly recommend. it come with a inline temp guage and inline billet cooler. i bet that i check the temp no less than 10 times per hour i ride. heat is the number killer to any engine and i would rather be safe than sorry...

i also bought a billet impeller, it should be here this week. from everything i have heard it works pretty good.
where did you get the billet impellar?
 

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i got it from thomas melzer who owns a shop named enduro 4 you in sachsen, germany... it was about $100 including shipping and our shitty exhange rate.

mino mx racing parts out of the netherlands actually makes them... they have some pretty sweet parts available, but from all my research it looks like they don't really export anything to dealers over here in the united states.

www.mino.nl
 

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i got the billet high flow impeller setup today and it is sweet looking. i cant wait to get some new gaskets tomorrow so i can get this thing installed!

it doesnt come with any screws so i had to buy some. the billet spacer is 6mm thick and the extra gasket is .8mm thick. so your options are a m6x25 or m6x30 screw. i think i am going with a m6x35 stud and serrated flanged low profile nut... see pics below.
 

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i got the billet high flow impeller setup today and it is sweet looking. i cant wait to get some new gaskets tomorrow so i can get this thing installed!

it doesnt come with any screws so i had to buy some. the billet spacer is 6mm thick and the extra gasket is .8mm thick. so your options are a m6x25 or m6x30 screw. i think i am going with a m6x35 stud and serrated flanged low profile nut... see pics below.

So how can we order one of these?
 

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here are pics of the stock impeller next to the mino racing billet impeller...

my initial tests show a significant decrease in average temperature. it now huddles anywhere between 172-174 before it was 187-189. the real test will be on the dyno next week!

also i ended up using a m6x35 screw not a m6x30 as initially thought...
 

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here are pics of the stock impeller next to the mino racing billet impeller...

my initial tests show a significant decrease in average temperature. it now huddles anywhere between 172-174 before it was 187-189. the real test will be on the dyno next week!

also i ended up using a m6x35 screw not a m6x30 as initially thought...

I just ordered it this morning. Thanks for the help!!!

s/f
Brian
 

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here are pics of the stock impeller next to the mino racing billet impeller...

my initial tests show a significant decrease in average temperature. it now huddles anywhere between 172-174 before it was 187-189. the real test will be on the dyno next week!

also i ended up using a m6x35 screw not a m6x30 as initially thought...
Looks pretty nice Bronson, btw did you just change the impeller to get that drop or did you change coolent also? I can't wait to see your dyno results later this week .... good stuff.
-Voodoo
 

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I know this is an old thread but hoping some of you guys have seen this.
Added an Mino high flow impeller and Engine Ice. After the first trip out had small amount of leakage from weap hole below water pump.
Any ideas?
Thanks
 

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i only use cyclelogic's engine ice. I was turned on to it by Cliff Larkosh @ MaxPower to use in my YFZ523. Ever since then I have used it. Matter of fact I tested it against the Royal Purple: Purple Ice, which is what i used before. My YFZ523 ran on average 12 degrees cooler and in the middle of the texas summer it was closer to 17 degrees cooler with the engine ice versus the purple ice.

http://www.engineice.cc/

I also bought a billet temp guage and finned inline cooler to use. Jay Bedwell (eBay: c-40rider) makes a top quality setup that i highly recommend. it come with a inline temp guage and inline billet cooler. i bet that i check the temp no less than 10 times per hour i ride. heat is the number killer to any engine and i would rather be safe than sorry...

i also bought a billet impeller, it should be here this week. from everything i have heard it works pretty good.
Bronson do you have a link to the inline temp gauge?
 

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I'm running the same cooler/guage set as mentioned above.

eBay c-40rider

Chris
 
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