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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I got the rebuild kit, and the seal fits on great, but my biggest problem so far is getting the piston pushed down far enough in the slave cylinder to fit the snap ring. When I push on the piston there's so much pressure that I am not able to get it pushed down very far. Any suggestions on how you guys got the piston pushed down?
 

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Use a c-clamp that’s appropriatly sized, slow and steady on pushing that piston seal in there, it shouldn’t want to but don’t let it go sideways and try to keep the clamp surfaces in the middle of the piston, evenly compressing. You don’t want to chance tearing the o-ring. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Use a c-clamp that’s appropriatly sized, slow and steady on pushing that piston seal in there, it shouldn’t want to but don’t let it go sideways and try to keep the clamp surfaces in the middle of the piston, evenly compressing. You don’t want to chance tearing the o-ring. Good luck
Thanks, that ended up working great in getting the piston pushed down. Now my other issue is that the piston is not moving at all and therefore the slave cylinder does not want to go back on the engine. I don't want to force it back on the engine as that could damage something.
 

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Good to hear, Good technique to know if you ever do brake work too. You have two or three possible things that are making your life more difficult. The first two things are lube and tempuratire, The colder that o-ring is, the more it will resist any type of flexing, the second thing is lube, rubber won’t slide on a dry, metal surface well, you can lube the cylinder with just about anything, but I would use high temp grease, clutch blood, or engine oil. The safest way to go about this is taking the piston back out and putting the lube on the cylinder and o-ring. After lube I would add some heat, make that rubber more manipulatable. You can then put your gasket and other, larger o-ring that goes on the outside of the cylinder on (make sure all sealing surfaces are clean) and use the three bolts CAREFULLY to press is back on, go slow and only go a fraction of a turn and then move on to the next bolt. If it binds and you keep going you’ll mess with the o-ring and it won’t seal. The third possible issue is that whoever made this kit simply didn’t pic an o-ring that’s works, or at least that works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Good to hear, Good technique to know if you ever do brake work too. You have two or three possible things that are making your life more difficult. The first two things are lube and tempuratire, The colder that o-ring is, the more it will resist any type of flexing, the second thing is lube, rubber won’t slide on a dry, metal surface well, you can lube the cylinder with just about anything, but I would use high temp grease, clutch blood, or engine oil. The safest way to go about this is taking the piston back out and putting the lube on the cylinder and o-ring. After lube I would add some heat, make that rubber more manipulatable. You can then put your gasket and other, larger o-ring that goes on the outside of the cylinder on (make sure all sealing surfaces are clean) and use the three bolts CAREFULLY to press is back on, go slow and only go a fraction of a turn and then move on to the next bolt. If it binds and you keep going you’ll mess with the o-ring and it won’t seal. The third possible issue is that whoever made this kit simply didn’t pic an o-ring that’s works, or at least that works well.
Thanks for the tips! The cylinder might be dry. I'll take it apart today and try what you suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I managed to get the piston seated into the cylinder properly and rebled the whole hydraulic system. After rebleeding it, the clutch felt great and I rode it for a few mins without issues. Then a few minutes later the clutch faded out and I had the same old issue, where it wouldn't disengage. So I took off the slave cylinder to make sure the oil was not getting past the piston, and everything looked good. So I decided to rebleed the system again and took my time this time-around and I pumped the clutch lever for quite a while to get as many air bubbles out as I could. After doing that, the clutch finally worked all fine, no fading this time! I appreciate everyone who took their time to give me suggestions and tips on how to diagnose/fix this issue.

As for the slave cylinder rebuild kit, it is made by All Balls Racing and it ended up working quite well. The piston seal was not exactly an o-ring (I provided a picture of how it looks), and it fit on very snugly. All the gaskets and o-rings for the slave cylinder also fitted up great. If anyone is wondering more info about it, I included a picture of the part #/compatibility as well as a link.

Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-SLA...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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I managed to get the piston seated into the cylinder properly and rebled the whole hydraulic system. After rebleeding it, the clutch felt great and I rode it for a few mins without issues. Then a few minutes later the clutch faded out and I had the same old issue, where it wouldn't disengage. So I took off the slave cylinder to make sure the oil was not getting past the piston, and everything looked good. So I decided to rebleed the system again and took my time this time-around and I pumped the clutch lever for quite a while to get as many air bubbles out as I could. After doing that, the clutch finally worked all fine, no fading this time! I appreciate everyone who took their time to give me suggestions and tips on how to diagnose/fix this issue.

As for the slave cylinder rebuild kit, it is made by All Balls Racing and it ended up working quite well. The piston seal was not exactly an o-ring (I provided a picture of how it looks), and it fit on very snugly. All the gaskets and o-rings for the slave cylinder also fitted up great. If anyone is wondering more info about it, I included a picture of the part #/compatibility as well as a link.

Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-GASKET-BOOT-SEAL-BOLT-REBUILD-KIT-KTM-ATV-525-XC-2008-2009/232688260507?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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You are a life saver. Thank you for posting the fix and part number as I was experiencing the same issue. Thank you
 

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I put in a new clutch and tried to put the used green seal back on the piston, but it would simply not fit in the slave cylinder, so I tried some o rings I bought, but those ended up being too small where hydraulic fluid would pass right by it into the engine. I realized that the "milky oil" was actually the engine oil and hydraulic fluid mixing. That got me looking for a rebuild kit on the slave cylinder. Has anyone tried this rebuild kit on eBay? It specifically says it will fit a 525XC ATV:

Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-GASKET-BOOT-SEAL-BOLT-REBUILD-KIT-KTM-ATV-525-XC-2008-2009/232688260507?fits=Model:525XC|Make:KTM&hash=item362d4d159b:g:H0AAAOSwPoNanZ~5:sc:USPSFirstClass!98663!US!-1:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true


Also, is there supposed to be a spring between the piston and slave cylinder? I'm wondering why this green seal no longer wants to fit in the slave cylinder...

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yes there's supposed to be a spring, did this all end up working out for you? I am currently experiencing a similar issue and am waiting on parts right now.
 
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