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Discussion Starter #1
So just recently I have noticed that when i pull in my clutch and engage 1st gear the quad starts to roll forward. also moves forward if started in gear. I have never changed my clutch fluid, i did check it and it is full, but should i drain it and put fresh fluid in? I have ran 5 gncc races over the past year. just wondering what adjustments to make. thanks
 

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It sounds like warped steels to me. If they are warped there will usually a lot of blueing on the steels. Have you ever bleed the clutch? If not, try that first.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no i have not bleed them before, nor have i ever taken the clutches out to see if they are blued. looked in manual to see about bleeding them but nothing there. what is the best way or any way to do this. thanks jerry
 

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no i have not bleed them before, nor have i ever taken the clutches out to see if they are blued. looked in manual to see about bleeding them but nothing there. what is the best way or any way to do this. thanks jerry
It's easiest to do this with two dudes......
1. unscrew screws (2) from your master cylinder up on your handlebars
2. attach about a 12 in. piece of tubing to the release bolt (8mm with rubber topper) on your slave cylinder, which is down on the left side of the motor, just front of the sprocket. there is a 12 mm bolt (don't touch it) and the 8mm bolt which you'll use.
3. pump the clutch several times untill it feels tight, then hold the clutch in
4. with the clutch lever pulled in loosen the 8mm bolt just enough to release air/fluid from the lines.
5. still holding the clutch in, tighten that same bolt back down and then you can release the clutch lever.
6. repeat this several times untill there are NO bubbles visibly being released from the slave cylinder...just straight fluid. and DO NOT let the fluid level get too low in your master cylider on your bars...keep it topped off.


good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
sounds like a weekend project, going to fix the header leak as well. thanks
 

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sounds like a weekend project, going to fix the header leak as well. thanks
should take you about 15-20 mins is all for the clutch. just curious how you're wanting to fix your header leak....you getting it welded or doing that silicon stuff?
 

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easier way to bleed clutch. get a large serenge with tubing fill with mineral oil, put tubing on bleeder bolt at the slave remove cover on master cylinder. break lose the bleeder bolt and inject mineral oil. fills from the bottom up. tighten up bleeder bolt. put on master cylinder cover you are done. no air and can do by your self
 

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Discussion Starter #8
should take you about 15-20 mins is all for the clutch. just curious how you're wanting to fix your header leak....you getting it welded or doing that silicon stuff?
well i was going to try copper sealant that was suggested on here, but my naybore could weld it too, it rainy and cold right now and not feelin very motivated at the moment. so who knows. which did you do/ would do
 

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easier way to bleed clutch. get a large serenge with tubing fill with mineral oil, put tubing on bleeder bolt at the slave remove cover on master cylinder. break lose the bleeder bolt and inject mineral oil. fills from the bottom up. tighten up bleeder bolt. put on master cylinder cover you are done. no air and can do by your self
sweet, definately gonna keep that one in mind. thanks
 

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well i was going to try copper sealant that was suggested on here, but my naybore could weld it too, it rainy and cold right now and not feelin very motivated at the moment. so who knows. which did you do/ would do

i would get it TIG welded all the way around both exhaust pipes. just make sure it's welded on exactly as it is when it's bolted on the bike or else you've got yourself a hell of a problem...but, that shouldn't be too hard to do either. that's what i did and then i even grinded off the spring hook mounts from the flange and the header pipes since the springs are useless once it's welded.
 
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