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Hello, I write from Ukraine through the translator, excuse for errors. At me ТМ 525 I use for MX, Are established Long travel A-Arms and steering stabilizer.Мy weight 155 ipb.What the best shock set up for MX? Now very rigid options how to make a maximum the soft? What to establish for MX? (For example others Shock (Elka) or Long swingarms?) As it is better Front end setup for MX? I wait answers (the first race in March).Write please easier, for transfer. Many thanks for good answers.
 

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get some ktm 450sx a-arms and get fox evol front shocks. get a wider axle in the rear. use a ktm 450sx axle. hope this helps.
 

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If you already have the wide a-arms and have the spacers set wide on the back axle have a read of this post - http://www.ktmatvhq.com/forum/invision/ind...?showtopic=1620

I am heavier than yourself, so these settings may be a good start point.
It is worth a try before spending big money on new shocks all round.

If you have the money to spend and want the best set up, send your Ohlins over to Rocket Ron in the States. http://www.ktmatvhq.com/forum/invision/ind...p?showtopic=858
He does a fantastic job and is great to deal with.
 

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Send Ron a message with what style you race (MX) and your weight.
He will be able to give you a cost.
 

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Camber is the angle of the wheel off vertical when looking at it from the front or rear of the quad. If the top of the tyre appears to be leaning in towards the centre of the quad, it has negative camber. Leaning away from the centre of the quad at the top of the tyre is positive camber.

Most quads run from one to four degrees of negative camber.

Less camber will hold a good line in rough terrain, but will push’ in a corner known as under steer.
With more camber will make the bike turn well in corners with a lot of traction but will also make it grab ruts and follow grooves in the track.

A general MX set up is 3 degrees negative camber. All riders have preferences either side of that, but this is a good starting point.

Put a straight edge vertically against the rim and check the angle with an angle gauge. The rims must be straight, not buckled, or you’ll get a false reading.

On the KTM A-arms, both camber and caster are adjusted with heim joints that mount to the chassis on the top A-arms. We adjust the camber on these A-arms by removing the pivot bolts and winding both top heim joints in or out equally.
 

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use an engineers set square pressed in against the rim at the bottom



recommended difference bottom rim edge to top rim edge try 19mm = approx 3 degrees





need flat floor and all tires = same inflation pressure left to right side
 

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keep the original shocks and adjust them, and buy some KTM SX A-arms. that worked for me all year
 
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