Wont start when hot/bogging down and stalling when hot
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  1. #41
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    Alright so I've got the new Jets in, the carb is rebuilt and reinstalled on the machine.

    I made a new gasket for the brake fluid reservoir and added fluid. Is there a way to bleed the front brakes? When I start pumping the handbrake pressure builds in the lever but if I stop pumping it will bleed off and lose the pressure.

    I'll be putting the tank back on and putting all the plastics back on tomorrow. Basically just waiting for the new air cover to come in now.

  2. #42
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Member
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    Take a some rubber tubing, secure on to bleeder screw, run the other side to a bottle. fill reservoir with fluid (do NOT mix DOT 5 with any other fluid, you can mix DOT 3, 5, and 5.1) 5.1 will take more heat to boil, which is a good thing. Pump brakes up and HOLD the lever in, open bleeder screw, close bleeder screw, THEN open the lever, add fluid if need be, keep going until the old fluid is flushed out and there is no air bubbles coming out of the lines, do one side at a time. If you let the lever go while the bleeder screw is open you’re going to suck air right back into the system, then you get to do it over again.

  3. #43
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    Awesome. I got some 5.1. sounds easy enough. I'll see if I can't get my gf to help me on with that today

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  5. #44
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    Well I went to bleed the brakes. Did the one side and it didn't really ever quite tighten up like it should have. Took the tire off the other side and found out the previous owner somehow demolished the bleeder valve. So I guess I'll be without front brakes for a while since I don't have 200 for a used caliper.

    Seems I bought a lemon. Woo

  6. #45
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Member
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    People don’t know how to take care of the KTMs typically, they are one of a kind, has stuff that will cost you big bucks if you overlook. Make sure you don’t just need a new bleeder acrew

  7. #46
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    The hole is striped out and absolutely fucked. I might be able to drill it out and rethread for a bigger bleader but it'll be easier to get another. If I can fix the current one I'll just have it as a backuo

  8. #47
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    When I take the tire off again to change the caliper I'll snap a picture of it

  9. #48
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    well I found a used caliper for 100 bucks. went ahead and bought it. since the current caliper is all messed up its causing damage to the rotor

    the rotor is made of two parts. the part that the pads actually grab on to, and the part that bolts therotor to the hub. those two things are held together by what seems like large rivets. well those are wearing out and you can actually wiggle the two parts of the rotor so I should probably replace that too if I cant fix it. is there a good replacement rotor I can get that wont cost an arm and a leg?

  10. #49
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    The riverts are made to float back and forth a little so it can get rid of possible debris that gets lodged in there, very uncommon for the discs to just go bad without provoking it.

  11. #50
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    Ah well cool. They probably aren't bad then. Thanks a lot. Like I said I've never dealt with ATVs so I didn't know it was a feature lol

  12. #51
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Guru
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    Most ATVs are like dirt bikes and use a solid mount rotor with a floating caliper. The KTMs are opposite and use solid mount calipers and floating rotors to keep everything in alignment. You can actually hear the front rotors "fluttering" under certain conditions. All normal. One other difference is the KTM calipers are a 4 piston unit instead of one or two pistons on other makes. Instant stopping power if you can get them bled out properly. They are by far the most difficult system I've ever dealt with as far as trying to get them bled 100%. Never could get them to where I wanted them by bleeding out the bottom, but that is how you have to start the process to get the old fluid and big air bubbles flushed out. After that it took working the lever and watching air coming up out of the master cylinder reservoir. Takes 2 days working on them off and on. Done it 3 times this way. I'm investing in a vacuum bleeding system next time I have to do it.
    Mine:
    2017 Husky FX 450
    2009 505 SX
    2008 525 XC-modded for mx (currently 450 cylinder)
    Dad's:
    2009 450 SX
    2008 540 XC

  13. #52
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    Awesome. I think I know what fluttering you are talking about because when I had the bike jacked up I spun the tire with the good caliper and the tire wobbled, or fluttered. I thought there was something wrong with that too.

    But I saw the bad side rotor wobbling and was crestfallen because I thought it was another issue I needed to fix lol

  14. #53
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    Hi guys. So I put everything back on the bike and got it running. If I post a video of it running could you tell me by sound if I set the valves right??

  15. #54
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    You can try but it’s hard over the internet, not to mention the RFS motors are pretty noisy even when freshly rebuilt. If it starts and runs well you’re in spec most likely

  16. #55
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    Alright I'll take your work for it. Just sounded like it was clicking pretty loud. But I don't really remember what it sounded like before taking it apart

  17. #56
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    Eh if it’s it’s real noisy they are probly off.

  18. #57
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    So for my front brakes. On the parts diagram it shows the cover, and then a membrane below the cover. I need the membrane. I have the cover and everything but I'm having trouble finding just the membrane

  19. #58
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Member
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    You’ll have to buy the cover too, part # 83013003000


 
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