KTM 570 - Idle and Clutch Issues! HELP!
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Thread: KTM 570 - Idle and Clutch Issues! HELP!

  1. #1
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    KTM 570 - Idle and Clutch Issues! HELP!

    Hello all, I recently purchased a KTM 450XC that has a 570 kit installed. The quad ran and idled great when I first got it. To start it, I would need to press in the clutch lever, then press the start button. After taking it on a trip to the dunes, about halfway through my riding, the bike would no longer want to idle. It runs perfectly fine as long as my thumb is on the throttle, but as soon as my thumb lets go, the quad cuts out and dies. In addition, I noticed that around the same time this issue began happening, I would no longer need to hold in the clutch lever to start the bike. Maybe the two issues are related somehow? I tried loosening the throttle cable and that did not help. Any help or advice would be appreciated!!

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    I’ve heard of electrical issues causing bog and other related things before but I’ve never dealt with it, it’s always been a carb thing with anything I’ve owned. Try thouroghlly cleaning your carb first. Did you happen to mess with the idle? It can throw the TPS out of whack and it will cut spark as soon as you hit the throttle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Youngwildandfree View Post
    Iíve heard of electrical issues causing bog and other related things before but Iíve never dealt with it, itís always been a carb thing with anything Iíve owned. Try thouroghlly cleaning your carb first. Did you happen to mess with the idle? It can throw the TPS out of whack and it will cut spark as soon as you hit the throttle.
    No I did not mess with the idle until after the idling issue began. After I noticed it wouldn't idle, I tried to adjust the idle screw on the carb slightly back and forth, but it did not help.

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    I won’t be able to comment on the electrical part of things besides I don’t think your clutch safety and lack of idling are related, take that as a grain of salt. My first things to do would be to clean out all the jets in the carb, check for cracked intake boot (boot fitting in between the carb and the engine head, and drain old fuel and put new in if you haven’t. You will have to check VERY carefully for the crack in the intake boot, they can be virtually unnoticeable, but they can suck air in, causing an extreme lean condition.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Youngwildandfree View Post
    I won’t be able to comment on the electrical part of things besides I don’t think your clutch safety and lack of idling are related, take that as a grain of salt. My first things to do would be to clean out all the jets in the carb, check for cracked intake boot (boot fitting in between the carb and the engine head, and drain old fuel and put new in if you haven’t. You will have to check VERY carefully for the crack in the intake boot, they can be virtually unnoticeable, but they can suck air in, causing an extreme lean condition.
    I appreciate the quick response. I'd like to see if anyone has input on what electrical issue it may be before I tear apart the carb. I bought the bike just a few weeks ago, and it idled perfectly, throttle response was great, etc. Since it suddenly stopped idling about halfway through my riding, I'm not so sure it would be a carb-related issue but I am thinking it may be related with a sensor or electrical issue...Although I am really not sure what the issue is.

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    KTM 570 - Idle and Clutch Issues! HELP!

    My two bob (about 15c in your money)...

    The Keihin FCR carb is very robust but its very complex and can be prone to fouling/clogging of the idle circuits.... my advice from experience:

    Strip and clean the carb anyway..... lots of carb cleaner and compressed air.... take the slide out and take care not to swell up the diaphragm on the floating slide (unless you have a service kit for the carb - if youíre not sure of the age, buy one).... I ride in the dunes and it needs cleared out about every 20hrs... do it along with the valve checks.

    Probably the above.... but....

    Carb boot.... strip it all off and check between the two jubilee clips, its prone to splitting on the carb side where you cant see it under the band - causes the same.... Iím certain this also killed my coil....

    You will need a good multimeter for this.... also some savvy and the service manual.... follow all the diagnostics... start at plug and work backwards.... check plug cap and coil end.... I cut 5mm off the coil lead.... helped but not enough, issue was the primary coil... split carb boot, poor starting, eventual death of the primary coil. Plug cap can be an issue... but you can test all other parts with a decent multimeter, donít preempt, be methodical and do the tests.

    Donít touch the TPS... you need a special cable to reset.


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    Last edited by Miner; 08-09-2018 at 12:53 AM. Reason: Added plug cap info

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    Thanks for the advice Miner. I was able to fix the clutch lever issue, but I still got the idling issue....Basically the sensor for the clutch lever was stuck in (I believe it may have been due to the sand), allowing me to start the bike without having to pull in the lever. After a bit of cleaning and compressed air, the sensor was working properly again. As for the idle issue, it still remains and I have not messed with the carb yet. If I gave the quad 2 pumps of gas then started it, then it runs for like one second then dies. If I start it and keep my thumb on the gas, it will run but the second I let go of the gas it dies. Not sure if any of the mods on the bike could be causing the issue, but it does have a Fuel Customs intake, Looney Tuned exhaust, and carb was appropriately jetted.

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    We had the same issue... bike was hard to start, two pumps to flood the chamber with fuel via the accelerator pump... points towards lean condition. Thereís a few good videos on YouTube about lean pilot/poor starting on the FCR carbs.


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    https://youtu.be/6_EXK7RpKMM


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    Thanks Miner! I'll take a look into it.

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    Check the carb intake boot for cracks or tears

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    Quote Originally Posted by steveo525 View Post
    Check the carb intake boot for cracks or tears
    Will do Steve! Is this a boot that is directly on the carb, or are you referring to the intake boot that has the air filter on it?

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    Carb one... it splits as described above. Mine was cracked really badly but only noticeable when disassembled.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Miner View Post
    Carb one... it splits as described above. Mine was cracked really badly but only noticeable when disassembled.


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    Thanks! I'll look into it once I get the chance.

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    You guys were dead on with your guesses. After tearing the bike apart, I quickly noticed a large tear in the carb boot going to the engine. Also I noticed the whole boot slipped off of the engine, however I am not sure if this was from moving around the intake when removing the rear plastic, or if it was already like that. Anyhow, I ordered a replacement and hopefully it will arrive later this week. I'll keep you guys updated on how things go! Thank you everyone for the helpful comments!

    KTM 570 - Idle and Clutch Issues! HELP!-img_20180813_183724.jpg
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    There is an updated boot from KTM that is much thicker. I don't have the part number handy, but it's floating around here if you search for it. They may all be superseded to the new part by now. I used a larger clamp on the carb side for it to fit to my liking. I just ordered an extra of the one that holds the intake boot to the carb on the air filter side.
    Mine:
    2017 Husky FX 450
    2009 505 SX
    2008 525 XC-modded for mx (currently 450 cylinder)
    Dad's:
    2009 450 SX
    2008 540 XC

  18. #17
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    The Boot you want is part number 59436044200. If you called KTM and had them order you a boot off the parts fiche, then you will get a different boot that doesn’t have the offset in it.

    https://www.ktmatvhq.com/forum/xc-en...s.html#/latest

    Order the above listed boot (Hopefully still available) and call Garrett at FCI and he will tell you the proper way to line up the boot carb and intake. The FCI puts a lot of torque on the boot and the original boot and superseded boot are not thick enough. The above listed boot is. You will also need a larger hose clamp on the big end of the boot if I remember right.

    Also order 2 and have an extra one on hand if ever needed.
    Last edited by steveo525; 08-15-2018 at 02:01 AM.

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    Hi

    I am in need of a new connecting rod, pin and needle bearings for an RFS engine with a 570 Powerparts kit (Big Bore + Big Stroke)


    Is the rod the Standard 520 rod? Or maybe from a 570 husaberg? Cant seem to find the correct part number anywhere

    Doesn’t have to be original KTM, can be ProX, Hot Rods or Carillo no problem

    Thanks

  20. #19
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    Uses the oem rod geometry but the OEM rod is obsurdly priced
    Most recommend Carrillo, little to no rod flex, unlike the stocker, part number KT-EXC>-05079N I believe
    use the pro x pin and bearing as you can order them separately
    Only big end bearing on these, wrist pin connects straight to rod

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    Quote Originally Posted by Youngwildandfree View Post
    Uses the oem rod geometry but the OEM rod is obsurdly priced
    Most recommend Carrillo, little to no rod flex, unlike the stocker, part number KT-EXC>-05079N I believe
    use the pro x pin and bearing as you can order them separately
    Only big end bearing on these, wrist pin connects straight to rod
    Thanks

    would you know the Prox pin and bearing part numbers?


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