Crank shimming help.
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  1. #1
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Guru
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    Crank shimming help.

    Alright ready to install my new crank and just wondering how where to shim my new crank. My old crank has shimms on both sides of the crank but my book says to only shim one side. I really dont want to pull the clutch side back off once i install the shims. Stator sides not bad cause u can pull off with the puller.
    2009 KTM 525XC #841

    Brad Mulvey Mod SX arms, SX axle, SX brake lines, KTM Big Nerfs, KTM Hood, Motoworks SR4 slip on, akro manifold, ESR heat gauge, 42mm bored carb, hrc kit, YFZ float bowl w/ adjustable leak jet, FCI "like" Intake w/ RC-5000 K&N filter.

  2. #2
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    Do u have ut old races? Grind inside of them out if u do so theu slide on and off crank use them to get axial set up correct. I would split them rather then put them all on one side it will help keep crank centered with counter balancer (opinion)
    2008 Ktm thumper 540 12.5:1, thumper trail port, kw valves, 806 cam, carillo rod w/ welded crank pin, mino hf pump, 41.5 mm carb with hrc needle, drilled squirter to .020", 160 main, 40 pilot, 45 leak jet, emulsion tube, beadlocks, ac nerf bars, elka steering stabalizer, ignition curve switch, bills pipe, fci intake, thumper crankcase breather, steering stem bearing mod, frame scuff guards, (6 pack rack, A arm, swing arm, frame body guards) from prm, 15t sprocket

    2000 Lt80
    2000 Rancher 4wd

  3. #3
    Administrator KTMATVHQ Guru
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    you adjust the shims on the stator side only. What ever you had on the previous crank on the primary side, start with that and adjust the stator side shims to get the desired clearance.
    KTM 505 SX: Web cams / 13.5:1 custom CP / balanced and modded crank / custom Vortex X10 ignition / Ported head / 43.5mm billet centre bored carb / KTM Akrapovic muffler / Mino hi vol water pump / 12 deg flexx's / houser stem / elka 5 / PEP PB1's and PEP LT rear / Walsh Flow A Arms / Quad tech seat & Foam / CF nose / FCI intake / relocated batt box / KTM Bill header / KTM factory SS Oil Pump setup / Manual cam chain tensioner Next round of mods: oil cooler........ the NEW TOP DOG 114 hrs…. best race engine I've owned

    KTM 554 XC
    : sx style crank, light weight SXF flywheel, TT sxf stator, steel linered cylinder, custom JE piston ceramic coating, plus 1 ported head / 807 cam, 43.5mm carb. Mino hi vol water pump. KTM Bill custom exhaust, FCI intake, JB A Arms, PEP PB1s front LT and rear , Lonestar axle, 12 deg Flexx's, CF nose, elka 3 steering damper, KTM factory nerfs, factory white plastic and graphics / gell cell battery Next round of mods: oil cooler........

    gotta stop spending $$$ on these KTM's...…..

    Polaris Outlaw 525 IRS - 2011
    , lonestar plus 2 A Arms, cut MXR front shocks (minus 1 ") with ZPS / ttripple rate, FUJ rear suspension rear shock mount units drops ride height 2", FUJ HD adj sway bar, 1.5” rear billet wheel spacers, Polaris nerfs, bumper and rear rack, Yoshi competition slip on, Pro Taper bars, acerbis hand guards, Trailtech GPS with billet protector. KTM throttle / Honda Front master cylinder and shorty lever / 41mm carb & hi flow intake runner / big filter / Billet FCR transition ring. Modified rear spring package / rear revalve.

    next round of mods: 8/33 cam, Hi Flow water pump and 540 cylinder / wossner piston waiting to go in, fastway 3 steering damper ala KTM setup, custom header using KTM XC header as a starting piece, light flywheel setup.
    gotta have something to modify this year !

    LTR 450
    , My Wife Nicola's ride & my back up mxer - 493 BB / JE piston / special order Yoshi motard cams / custom fueling map / tcs LT ZPS front end setup, TCS rear ZPS revalve / ims tank / TB exhaust / power commander / proflo - K&N / 14 deg flexx's / race nerfs / armadillo bumper/ Denton damper, next round of mods: ported head and carillo rod...... the clark kent of the ATV trio ! 210 hrs and still going strong ! the BB kit transformed this machine, it hauls the mail now !!!!

    A garage full of wheels and tires for them all........ speedway / sand / MX / cross country, over 30 at last count all on rims ready to rock

    NZ # 1 Vets champ 2013
    NZ Vets (40+) North Island MX champ 08, 09, 12 & 13
    NZ TT champ Vets (40+) 06, 08, 09,12 & 13
    Auckland ATV Club Sprint Series Champ 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 11, 12 & 13
    hope to get a good season in for the remainder of 2014.......finding time to ride being the biggest problem !

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  5. #4
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Guru
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    Thanks guys. This will give me a starting point at least, i do have the old races will try and open up the hole some.
    2009 KTM 525XC #841

    Brad Mulvey Mod SX arms, SX axle, SX brake lines, KTM Big Nerfs, KTM Hood, Motoworks SR4 slip on, akro manifold, ESR heat gauge, 42mm bored carb, hrc kit, YFZ float bowl w/ adjustable leak jet, FCI "like" Intake w/ RC-5000 K&N filter.

  6. #5
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    Don't bother opening up insides. Take a grinder and cut through one side of them. Far easier and they just slide in and off. Watch for burs on inside.

  7. #6
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Guru
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    Gotta say splitting the races was the best thing for setting the axial clearance. I got it around .021" so between .5 and .6 mm if my math is right. Only needed to remove one shim on the stator side.
    2009 KTM 525XC #841

    Brad Mulvey Mod SX arms, SX axle, SX brake lines, KTM Big Nerfs, KTM Hood, Motoworks SR4 slip on, akro manifold, ESR heat gauge, 42mm bored carb, hrc kit, YFZ float bowl w/ adjustable leak jet, FCI "like" Intake w/ RC-5000 K&N filter.

  8. #7
    Oki
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    I fitted the new race on the clutch side, and used a dremel tool to bore the old race for the stator side (didnt have a grinder), I guess you can do it with sandpaper as well, but it will take some time

    I measure the crank axial play before taking apart, so I know if I need to remove or add extra shims before assembly

  9. #8
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Guru
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    Ya this was an all new setup, new crank, bearings. So i didnt think the stock setup would really have mattered too much.
    2009 KTM 525XC #841

    Brad Mulvey Mod SX arms, SX axle, SX brake lines, KTM Big Nerfs, KTM Hood, Motoworks SR4 slip on, akro manifold, ESR heat gauge, 42mm bored carb, hrc kit, YFZ float bowl w/ adjustable leak jet, FCI "like" Intake w/ RC-5000 K&N filter.

  10. #9
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Member
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    I split my races when i did my shims but noticed they spread apart making a tight fit in the bearings. I think boring/grinding insides out will make it easier when measuring the axial play.
    2008 Ktm thumper 540 12.5:1, thumper trail port, kw valves, 806 cam, carillo rod w/ welded crank pin, mino hf pump, 41.5 mm carb with hrc needle, drilled squirter to .020", 160 main, 40 pilot, 45 leak jet, emulsion tube, beadlocks, ac nerf bars, elka steering stabalizer, ignition curve switch, bills pipe, fci intake, thumper crankcase breather, steering stem bearing mod, frame scuff guards, (6 pack rack, A arm, swing arm, frame body guards) from prm, 15t sprocket

    2000 Lt80
    2000 Rancher 4wd

  11. #10
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Addict
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    I just wanted to add something I noticed when I shimmed my new crank. After I put the new race on the crank with the KTM tool and thought I had the clearance set to the max KTM spec, i decided to make sure the race was absolutely tight against the shims so I took a small punch and hammer and just lightly tapped the race down. I supported the crank correctly when I did this so I didn't push the crank lobes together. Between both sides I got an extra 0.1mm of clearance after I re-measured. Wasn't a big deal since I was at the max KTM setting of 0.35mm before, and from what I've heard on here a little more is even better. So my final measurement was 0.45mm. So if you guys are setting them up for more clearance to start with, make sure the races are completely tight up to the crank so you don't end up with too much if it shifts on you later.
    Mine:
    2009 505 SX
    2008 525 XC-modded for mx (currently 450 cylinder)
    2008 450SX-F two wheeler-complete with thumb throttle
    Dad's:
    2009 450 SX
    2008 540 XC

    2016 Sponsors- Oneal, Smith Optics, Amsoil, Twin Air, and Chuck's Welding and Repair.

  12. #11
    Oki
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    I put the crank in the freezer (oiled, on a piece of alu foil), race in the oven, oil well and slip on, and use a small hammer and punch (with flat end) to make sure it goes to the end, because you can hear the sound change when it does

  13. #12
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    Question

    Looking for help here.....

    I bought a used 2007 Outlaw 525 IRS and after changing the oil, I found some chunks. Knowing these are costly to fix if the crank goes, I decided to rebuild. I am trying to set the axial clearance on the crank, but it doesn't slide in the rollers easy to use a gauge, so I just used a feeler gauge on both sides and tapped the crank side to side. I am only getting .2 mm and it calls for .25-.35mm.

    I only changed races/bearings and not the shims. Should I leave that since it is stock, or remove a shim to try and get closer to the middle of the range? The crank only freely moves if coming directly out of the freezer. Should I worry about that?

  14. #13
    Senior Member KTMATVHQ Addict
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    That doesn't seem right. I'd make sure the crank is true and check the runout if you didn't have that done. If that crank has spread you might be right back in there again.
    Mine:
    2009 505 SX
    2008 525 XC-modded for mx (currently 450 cylinder)
    2008 450SX-F two wheeler-complete with thumb throttle
    Dad's:
    2009 450 SX
    2008 540 XC

    2016 Sponsors- Oneal, Smith Optics, Amsoil, Twin Air, and Chuck's Welding and Repair.


 

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