This is my thoughts on a handful of simple mods to enhance the SX engines reliability and longevity
1/ FIT AN HOUR METER & CHANGE THE OIL REGULARLY
Self explanatory really...... fit an hour meter and keep tabs on the oil change interval. These engines need fresh high quality oil, change it often !
Oils cheap, rebuilding one of these engines is most certainly not.......
Recreational riders, you will be surprised at the ratio of engine run time vs actual elapsed time (less run time than you think).
those on a budget go with Rotella, and dump it out every 4 - 6 hours.
Racers: change it out after each race weekend, you need to be keeping tabs for any "gunk" in the oil (metallic and clutch gunk).
2/ CLUTCH PACK
Replace the stock KTM clutch pack (9 frictions / 8 steels) with a Honda pack (8 frictions / 7 steels)
450CRF 2002-2008
22321-kz3-690 (x7)
22201-meb-670 (x8)
You cannot use the Honda frictions with the KTM steels, the stack height is to "low".
The stock KTM frictions generate allot of ultra fine black wear particles, these are fine enough to go straight through the oil filter, basically it's ultra fine clutch friction material........ this is also what degrades the oil (makes it appear black). This in part is why KTM recommend such short run time - oil change frequency, you gotta get that clutch gunk out of the engine..........
3/ CLUTCH SPRINGS
add a replacement set of HD clutch springs (for the KTM 450 - 505 SX-F dirtbikes)
Pro-X part number SPRING KIT 17.CS64042
can't find the Pro_X, check with EBC or Barnett they do uprated spring kits also
EBC part no 15-17136
the stock springs are on the whimpy side, I've experienced clutch slip / delay until the clutch bites in, in the higher gears in hi traction situations. With the stock frictions this peels off strands of ultra fine clutch fibre that then builds up around the oil pump intake screen, looks like sodden cotton wool !! all the more reason to ditch the KTM frictions as per 2 above whilst your in there.
4/ CAM CHAIN TENSIONER & OIL PUMP SHIM KIT
Replace the stock cam chain tensioner with Dave Hopkins manual unit, and block off the oil supply port to the tensioner (threaded plug is include in Dave's kit). It's a real nice piece and hands down better than the one I bought in europe (and didn't even fit right...)
[attachment=4153:djh1300_or.jpg]
http://www.djhcyclesport.com/
see Daves videos
http://www.djhcyclesport.com/Installation
Once installed then add two factory shims to the oil pump relief spring (do not do this with the stock tensioner)
shim part number is 0988060121... 1 mm shim cost around $.44.
Go to page 20 of the SX engine spare parts manual. The shim goes on the end of the relief spring (part number 26) in the end plug (part number 28). Check your spring free length is at least 38mm.
you have now increased oil pressure throughout the whole engine by around 8 psi and increased the flow to the critical cam shaft finger follower area in the head.
For you XC guys, Dave also does a unit for these (refer the RFS tensioner)
5/ WATER PUMP UPGRADE
these engines have a tendency to run hot, higher the air temperature the lower the margin to over heating becomes, this is more critical in a race engine than under recreational use.
Mino (Holland - Europe) and now KTM Hardparts both offer an upgraded wider impeller kit to increase flow around the cooling system.
See my review of the Mino unit here: [attachment=4154:Mino.pdf]
Mino Website
KTM HARDPARTS: KTM Part Number(s): 77335955044 (ignore the tag regarding the Akrapovic exhaust, that only relates to the two wheelers).
6/ CARB VENT LINE FILTERS
the FCR carbs have a number of vent lines, there are two from the carb slide area. The slide area can get dust in through the vent lines, this then forms a gunk - paste that then prevents the slide face from sealing in the carb body, the engine then runs really rough and has all the symptoms of an intermittent ignition fault with major misfire occurring, this is due to the engine now pulling air up through the vent lines and around the slide bypassing the the needle jet......... the increased vacuum through the vent lines then sucks in major dust and the whole process get worse quick to the point it will barely run.........
the SX seems very prone to this compared to other FCR equipped engines.
A cheap fix is to squirt foam filter oil up the tubes (don't over do it), the better fix is to install a vent line foam filter, there are a number on the market.
One of the better units is the 7602 filter setup
http://www.7602racing.com/prod_t6cf.php
[attachment=4155:4_wheel_..._filters.jpg]
Dave (the tensioner man) has these in stock, get one to go with that new tensioner !
Cheers
kiwi



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